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Move aside, chemical peels and 10-step skincare routines. Protein-based skincare is in, and it’s rapidly gaining momentum in the world of wellness products.
As we age, our skin produces lower levels of proteins such as collagen and elastin, leading to a weaker skin barrier and visible signs of ageing (hello, wrinkles!). As a result, skincare innovation is shifting away from quick surface fixes and towards ingredients that help support and rebuild the skin’s underlying structure.
Professor Colin Barrow from the Deakin Centre for Sustainable Bioproducts has long recognised the potential of protein in wellness products. His current research focuses on extracting valuable compounds from marine waste to develop materials for products ranging from protein supplements to anti-ageing skincare.
One unusual ingredient attracting growing interest is salmon skin.
Collagen can be sourced from pigs, chicken and fish, but most collagen used in skincare and wellness products today is bovine collagen, extracted from cow hides and bones.
However, this can raise ethical, cultural and, in some cases, perceived health concerns for consumers.
Some consumers have ethical concerns around animal welfare, as collagen is typically derived from by-products of the meat industry. There are also environmental considerations associated with cattle farming, including its impact on the land and greenhouse gas emissions. In a widely reported investigation in The Guardian, collagen production was linked to deforestation in Brazil.
From a cultural and religious perspective, some people avoid pork or beef and may not be comfortable using collagen sourced from these animals.
Potential health concerns include reports of allergic reactions in some individuals and claims that certain collagen supplements contain heavy metals.As a result, marine-derived collagen (particularly fromsalmon) is increasingly seen as a more appealing alternative.
‘Collagen derived from marine sources such as salmon has a much wider appeal and is seen as a high value, high active substitute,’ says Barrow.
Salmon skin is particularly attractive because it is rich in collagen and is often a byproduct of the seafood industry that would otherwise go to waste.
Salmon skin is a rich source of collagen and contains hydroxyproline, an amino acid essential for building and maintaining healthy skin.
Barrow explains:
‘Small peptides in salmon skin contain an unusual amino acid called hydroxyproline that is required for collagen in our skin. We need that amino acid for collagen formation.
‘In addition, the small hydroxyproline-containing amino acids that we form during our extraction process have shown to have benefits such as decreased inflammation,’ he says.
Other potential benefits of salmon skin-derived collagen include:
Barrow explains that collagen must be broken down into smaller peptides before it can be absorbed by the skin or the body. Some studies suggest that marine collagen peptides are smaller in size than other collagen types, which may support easier absorption.
The marine collagen industry is still emerging, but researchers are already exploring a range of fish byproducts.
‘Our research is primarily fish skins, but there is also collagen in fish bones. Skin is more collagen rich, however,’ Barrow says.
There is also growing interest in another marine-derived ingredient: salmon sperm.
Also known as PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide), it is sourced from salmon DNA and is used in cosmetic treatments. More research is needed to understand its benefits but some studies say it has potential anti-aging benefits, such as reducing fine lines.
Beyond skincare, marine collagen is already being explored in areas such as wound healing where it’s showing promise in supporting tissue repair and regeneration.
Sustainability is becoming a key driver in the future of skincare and wellness products. Instead of sending food and marine waste to landfill, researchers are finding new ways to refine and reuse these wastematerials, supporting a more circular economy.
Barrow believes there is significant untapped value in food and marine byproducts, particularly proteins, carbohydrates, fats and bioactive molecules.
‘These byproducts are already used in wellness products but are often derived from expensive sources and sometimes from petroleum or other non-organics.
‘We need to turn waste into value. Waste derived from food makes sense for nutritional applications if it can be properly refined,’ he says.
Barrow’s work is still in its early stages, but it highlights the potential to transform underutilised marine waste into high-value ingredients for the wellness industry.
If successful, research like this into salmon skin could help create more sustainable products while reducing waste from food production.
Next time you’re throwing away your food scraps, consider their hidden potential – they might just become the next generation of wellness products.
